Best “Boulders” at Barn Bluff – A Mini Guide
Barn Bluff in Red Wing is home to some of the most classic rope climbs in Minnesota. Just an hour away from the Twin Cities it hosts more than 100 ropes climbs from 5.6 to 5.14a. But did you know it also hosts a lot of good “boulders”? The start to many climbs often feature a hard sequence, more worthy of a V-Grade then the YDS. These climbs can be protected with a crash pad, rope soloed, or top roped! With a stick climb, a short bit of rope, a couple carabiners, and some shoes you can sample some hard vertical moves, and if you like it, come back for the full send. Here are our favorite “boulder problems” at the Bluff!
Annadonia Opening Boulder – V2/3
The entry to our boulders, anyone that knows this route, knows that the business is down low, bad feet, undercling, and a long deadpoint make this boulder problem extremely fun. Stick clip to the deadpoint move, boulder finishes on the deadpoint.
Paradigm Shift Opening Boulder – V4
This boulder is harder the shorter you are. Make sure to warm up your shoulders. This boulder ends as you gain the right hand seam/crack.
Living All Over Me Opening Boulder – V3
Edges lead you into a hard shoulder and undercling move, dead point the hueco jug and you are done with the first boulder. Long stick clip, take it to the big ledge the separates the first boulder from the second boulder.
Start of Something Good Opening Boulder – V4
Very sequency and technical slab boulder start. Feels impossible until you gain the right feet and sequence.
Longing for Miss Adonis Opening Boulder – V4
Another classic hard slab start. Thin and technical.
Piranha Opening Boulder – V4
Piranha as a route is more worthy of a V-Grade than 5.12b. Think of it as a V4 into 30 feet of victory top out.
Quiet Desperation Opening Boulder – V5/6
This one is desperate, a long dead point to a good hold, match it and you are done with the opening boulder.
Rock Pigs Opening Boulder – V6
Shouldery and technical, hope you like gastons. Gain the flake to end the intro boulder.
Vice Squad Opening Boulder – V6/7
If you can, stick clip to third bolt. Thin powerful climbing on horrible feet get you to the first hold. This has some of the thinnest hands and feet at the bluff. Some sequence trickery is required to gain a small undercling and stand up to the pinch. Over at the pinch.
Campinini Opening Boulder – V7
Powerful climbing on small holds, over at the second clip.
Paul’s Boutique Opening Boulder – V7
One of the most pure and powerful boulders at the Bluff. A long tensiony span to a small sidepull gets you up to some very small sloping hidden edges.
Insectaphobe Opening Boulder – V9
Probably the thinnest holds at the bluff. Thin powerful climbing and trickery gets you to the rail before the Blankman crux. Clip the permadraw and lower from the rail.
Light My Fire Opening Boulder – V?
One of the most classic 12+’s of the Bluff, a series of breaks at the start has left this climb totally different. Does it still go? Whatever the new sequence is this new start will be one of the harder boulders at the Bluff.
Climbing is dangerous, it involves inherent and other risks and cannot be eliminated. The information presented here does not describe all of the risks associated with climbing and is not intended to replace or supersede expert instruction and training.
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